somesaypip

Life for an Aussie chick in North West Cambodia. Local work in sports, education and development.

Friday, April 21, 2006

Regional News

Found in The Bangkok Post this week-

NEW DEHLI- Kissing in public has just become 10 times more expensive for couples in India's capital, who face fines of 500 rupees [US$11] if they are caught making "illegal use" of public spaces.

You have been warned!

Tuesday, April 18, 2006

For Sale

Cambodia has become a self-devouring nation in which just about everything seems to be for sale or lease: forests, fisheries, mining concessions, air routes, ship registrations, toxic dumps, weapons, women, girls, boys, babies.

I just came across this quote attributed to Seth Mydans (NY Times). And because it isn't a chirpy one I probably would have avoided it except that it rang true with a conversation I had this morning.

Today I asked some more questions about the 10 year old girl I wrote about yesterday. I suspected that she was not a daughter by birth and had probably quite recently come into the family. However, I didn't want to ask a lot of questions in front of the group while we were away. I figured at that time it was best to just befriend her as one of the family.

This morning I asked. I was told that she has only been living in the house for a month or two. Her father tried to sell her for $100 to pay off his gambling debts. The family negotiated. Not because she's not worth a hundred bucks but because they know she is far more precious.



Monday, April 17, 2006

More KNY Highlights

It took almost twelve hours to drive from Phnom Penh to Ratanakiri. I was thinking of jotting a dozen experiences that made it worthwhile. But there's one that needs more than just a line to explain....

I got to meet a 10 year old kid who has never had the chance to go to school. This in itself isn't thrilling... but... we hung out quite a bit over the week so I had time to play some games and make a guess at her abilities in numeracy, logical thinking, problem solving etc. We played number games using Uno cards, wrote some Khmer characters, talked about numbers in Khmer and played games to learn some colours in English. It was exciting to see that even though this little girl can't write her own name, she can play, think, engage, question, express herself and beat me at a memory game. I'm stoked to think that now given love, time and instruction, it is possible she should be able to go to school with some kids of similar age in a year or two. Seeing that was probably the highlight of my week.

And here's another 12 things I loved about going bush:

1. Smelling the rain-soaked earth.
2. Seeing skies teeming with insects, butterflies and a dozen other flying creatures.
3. Hearing the sound of water splashing over my body and onto the tiled floor as I bathed using a tub and a plastic scoop.
4. Noticing the watermelons bobbing around in that same water storage in the bathroom one afternoon. Realising that in a house without a fridge this is a great idea!
5. Passing tribal people with such awesome, knotted, wild hair that dreadlocks seem straight in comparison.
6. Getting up at dawn just to be present as the day creeps forward. Sitting on the verandah with a hot coffee in the half light.
7. Watching a leaf fall and stop and fall again as the wind cradles it from the heights to the forest floor.
8. Looking up. Seeing sky through the foliage.
9. Putting my pre-New Year Khmer dancing lessons from the girls to the test. Not caring if I looked foolish.
10. Driving past villages seeing fires lit at dusk to keep the cows warm during the cool nights.
11. Reaching for a blanket at 2am.
12. Always having someone around. Finding many opportunities to laugh and loving it all the more now that I can enter into some of the frivolity in Khmer.

Saturday, April 15, 2006

Khmer New Year

The trip to red dirt territory is over for this Khmer New Year. It was one of the best travelling experiences I've had within Cambodia. We stayed in the largest town in Ratanakiri province. We played every day at nearby waterfalls, rivers and lakes. I swam in the best pool in Cambodia. One of the lakes just near the township is a perfect circle in pristine forest with clear, cool water. It is a few hundred meters across.

Standing on the banks the challenge was plain. The trees at the other side loomed- calling those who would come. I suggested this to my travelling friend, who has just come off the end of the Australian traithlon season. She was a little reluctant at first, but eventually she agreed. We walked a short distance away from the main group and found a spot in the bushes to swap our polite shorts and T-shirt splashing outfit for actual swimming costumes. Caps and goggles would have make it more comfortable, but they weren't on hand.

We set out into the green-blue mystery. I followed the scissoring legs in front of me for as long as I could but slowly dropped off the pace. A couple of times I stopped to do some breastroke. A couple of times my friend turned her head and shouted, "C'mon! C'mon!" We hit the far bank and rested in the branches of a recently toppled tree. We talked about the reality of having to swim back. We wondered what motivates people to leave the shore.

Back in Phnom Penh this morning, another friend asked my traveling buddy, "Did you swim across the lake?" My friend answered, "Yep." The other friend said, "Yeah- I thought you would." To which came the reply, "Pip made me do it!" Swimming Cambodia's best swimming pool with someone else was a bonus. While I might have done the initial persuading, I appreciated having a "C'mon!" person when I started to slow. To journey with another person was good for me. For when we started our swim the reality that we might need to cross the lake and then come back again didn't even register. I only saw the challenge ahead and wanted to overcome it.


May there be more fun for the PB seeking triathlete who wants to be successful at the finish line and the reckless adventurer who dives in first and takes those initial few strokes even if that means coming in behind.

Saturday, April 08, 2006

Road to Ratanakiri

The guidebook tells me that it is now possible to travel overland from Phnom Penh to Ratanakiri in "one or two days". We're hoping for one. A group of about 12 we be leaving tomorrow morning at 6am to give it our best shot. In contrast to last year's trip to Battambang, this time I'm not the only foreigner in our group. I've roped in an Australian short-term volunteer to share the journey.

Ratanakiri is in the far northeastern corner of the local maps, hugging the borders of Vietnam and Laos. For the tourist it offers "ethnic minorities, elephants, waterfalls and jungles". For me it is a chance to explore another part of the country over the Khmer New Year holiday.

I don't think I'll be blogging from Ratanakiri. (I read there is just one place that has internet access and they charge the premium price of US$4 an hour...) Let you know when I'm back in the big city.

Friday, April 07, 2006

The Need For Orientation

I was sitting out the front of my house this morning when I noticed a seller riding her bicycle slowly past our driveway. She was calling out, "rice, rice!" Sure enough, strapped on the back of her pushie was a large, see-through plastic container filled with this Nation's staple. Potential customers needed only to stop her, produce an empty bowl from their kitchen and for a few cents she would fill it.

Such events so quickly become normal that I forget that this may not be a common way to trade elsewhere. But this morning I thought about my arrival in Cambodia. I was reminded that all of us who come to live in a foreign place take some time to find our feet. And I recalled a sorry story about an unfortunate American who came to Cambodia and got hungry, even as rice sellers rode down his street.

A short-term volunteer from the US was received at the airport by a staff member of his organisation and taken to the house they use for short-term guests. It happened that at this time he was the only person staying in the house. Another team member was supposed to meet the short-termer later in the day at the guesthouse to begin orientation, but the meeting never happened. Two days later an administrator at the office received a phone call from an American male asking, "Ummmm... where do I get food?"

People selling rice, bread and all other kinds of food would have been calling out for business right outside his window. He may have heard a tapping of a stick on a wooden block, meaning that a mobile noodle seller was coming. If he heard a small hand-bell he could have bought an ice-cream sandwich for dessert. He could have bought fruit and all other kinds of food without going to a single supermarket or local market. But he didn't. He stayed inside and got hungry.

Foreigners have much to learn.






Saturday, April 01, 2006

April

The month of April is thought to have derived its name from the Latin verb aperio, which means to open. In much of the Northern Hemisphere, at least, this is the season where the buds and blossoms are now opening. What might it mean for us to be open this April? What do you want to be open to at the start of this season? Feel free to comment...

To Open In April

Curtains open for I won't sit forever in the dark
Open a book and I'm lost for the night
Windows open to the rumblings of the street
The front door opens to welcome friends of friends
Meetings open and I'm challenged by open discussion
Open a box of chocolates and they never last long.

There's a restaurant near my house just opened-
The sign says, "Seven Days BBQ. Closed Sundays."
Sometimes it is hard to stay open
Sometimes I want to close my eyes to injustice.
To risk being open is to risk losing it all.
An open hand. An open heart. An open mind.
May I be open to these opening like April flowers.